gourmet traveller focaccia recipe

Authentic Ligurian Focaccia Recipe – Straight From Italy

Last updated on August 8th, 2024

Have you ever wondered how Ligurian focaccia is different from regular focaccia?

Do you dream of the bread pillows you chowed down on during your last trip to the Cinque Terre?

If you’re looking for a full-proof recipe to recreate authentic ligurian focaccia at home then you’ve come to the right place! 

In this article, I will walk you through what exactly authentic Ligurian focaccia is, how it’s different from regular focaccia and guide you through my authentic Ligurian focaccia recipe full of tips and tricks to ensure it comes out perfectly every time!

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How to Pronounce Focaccia

Focaccia in Italian is pronounced foh-kahch-chyah.

Listen to the pronunciation of focaccia:

What Is Ligurian Focaccia?  

Ligurian focaccia is a leavened Italian flatbread from the northwestern region of Liguria that’s:

• baked in either regular ovens or brick ovens
• baked in oil coated pans
• coated with a salt brine

In the local dialect, it’s also known as fugassa (pronounced foo-gahs-sah in Italian) but you might also hear it called focaccia ligure or focaccia genovese.  

How Is Ligurian Focaccia Different From Regular Focaccia?

There are several factors that set authentic Ligurian focaccia from regular focaccia. The main difference is the salty brine that is poured over the bread just before the final rise in the pan , creating an extra salty, crunchy crust. The brine settles into the dimples imprinted onto the Ligurian focaccia, creating an extra flavorful dough. The brine also helps to keep the inside moist and spongy, giving it an extra soft and fluffy interior. 

Other kinds of focaccia are still crunchy on the outside but they may be thinner and more chewy as opposed to soft and pillowy. Ligurian focaccia tends to be a bit thicker or ‘taller’ as they define it in Italian. 

Another defining characteristic of authentic Ligurian focaccia is the olive oil used in the dough . Liguria is known to produce some of the very best olive oil in all of Italy. Their version, made from the taggiasca olive , is very delicate and mild. 

Ingredients For Authentic Ligurian Focaccia

For the dough:

• 1.5 cups + 2 tablespoons (200 grams) baking flour 
• 3.5 cups (300 grams) bread flour 
• 1 teaspoon active dry yeast 
• 350 ml water
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3 tablespoons olive oil + 4 tablespoons for baking 
• 2 teaspoons honey
• flakey sea salt

For the brine:

• ¾ teaspoon sea salt
• ⅓ cup (75 ml) lukewarm water

You can absolutely use tap water but be sure it’s lukewarm. This means it should not feel hot like bath water but it should not be cold either. This is important for activating the yeast. 

Honey is important because it not only helps to give the ligurian focaccia its deep, golden, color, but it helps with the fermentation process of the dough. 

For Ligurian focaccia, I find it best to use a mix of baking flour and all-purpose flour. The baking flour has a higher protein content, making a more stable and elastic dough while the all-purpose is a good, everyday workhorse.

To learn more about flour, read Guide to Italian Flour – Straight from Italy

Here in Italy we use regular table salt for most things. Kosher salt isn’t very common. Use kosher if you prefer to note that it has less sodium by volume.

For a finishing salt, a flakey sea salt is best such as Maldon . 

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Use whatever extra virgin olive oil is affordable and convenient for you. Of course, the better quality you use, the more the flavor will come through in your dough. This being said, you can absolutely substitute with regular olive oil if you don’t have extra virgin.

For our suggestions and guide to buying olive oils read 15 Best Italian Olive Oils – To Enjoy in Italy & Bring Home as a Souvenir and Best Italian Olive Oil Brands in America – Where to Buy Them and How to Store Them .

How To Make Ligurian Focaccia 

• With a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, dissolve the yeast in the water. Mix well and add the two flours.
• Add the salt and olive oil and honey and continue to mix until well incorporated. Mix on medium speed for two or three minutes until the dough is smooth.

Transfer the dough to a large lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and for two hours until doubled in size, performing a series of four folds every 30 minutes by lifting up one corner of the dough with a wet hand, pulling it up and bringing it back down on top of the dough on the opposite side. Turn the bowl a quarter of a turn and repeat 3 more times until all the dough has been folded upon itself (2 hours total).

Watch how I fold the dough in this short video:

Finish proofing at room temperature, anywhere from 1-4 hours more, depending on the weather, humidity, time of year, etc., or until doubled in size. 

Oil a 15×10.5 pan well with 1 tablespoon olive oil, being sure the sides are well oiled as well. Turn the dough out onto the oiled baking sheet. 

Using slightly wet or oiled hands, pull and stretch the dough out into an even rectangle, pulling from the underside of the dough outward, being sure it reaches to the edges of the pan. The dough will spring back, so repeat stretching once or twice over the next 30 minutes to ensure the dough remains stretched out fully to the edges.  

Brush with another 1-2 tablespoons of olive oil, cover with plastic wrap and let rise for about 1 hour while the oven is preheating to 475° F (245° C) until puffed. 

How To Dimple Ligurian Focaccia

The trick to dimpling ligurian focaccia is to keep your fingers moist. Dip your fingertips in water frequently. You also want to use the whole pads of your fingers to dimple the ligurian focaccia, not just the tips. If you just use your fingertips, you risk piercing the dough and creating smaller dimples. You ideally want to achieve large, wide dimples that will hold the brine well.

Mix the brine and pour evening over the dough so it fills all the dimples. 

Sprinkle the Ligurian focaccia lightly with flaky salt and bake on the lower rack of the oven for 13-18 minutes until golden and crisp.

Remove and brush with another tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil. Let cool for 5 minutes in the pan and then transfer to a wire rack to finish cooling completely. You may need to use a knife to loosen it from the edges. 

Substitutions For Authentic Ligurian Focaccia

Although authentic ligurian focaccia is defined by the delicate, bright flavor of local extra virgin olive oil, you can certainly use olive oil if that is all you have. 

Feel free to also play with the type of flour. I always like to keep a portion of baking flour while I swap out the all-purpose (or a portion of) for other flours such as whole wheat. 

Although not traditional, you can certainly add dried herbs or other simple ingredients such as halved cherry tomatoes or olives to the top right before adding the brine. 

How To Serve Authentic Ligurian Focaccia

Authentic Ligurian focaccia is enjoyed throughout the day in Liguria and all of Italy. In Liguria, this is the local bread and thus, it’s found on every dinner table. When enjoyed at a meal, it’s an accompaniment to appetizers and second courses . 

Popular ways Italians enjoy Ligurian focaccia: 

• for breakfast
• for a snack – add some pesto !
• with lunch and dinner
• as a sandwich
• with an aperitivo

Fun Fact: Focaccia in Italy is meant to be eaten capovolta or turned upside down, meaning the salty, oily part should hit your tongue first so you can experience the full explosion of flavor!

More Veg Please: Check out my list of Vegetarian Dishes to Try in Italy .

Ligurian Focaccia – Notes and Tips

• Try and have the dough reach the edges of the pan to ensure the brine doesn’t end up under the focaccia. It should stay on top. 
• Don’t skimp on the olive oil because that is one of the authentic ligurian focaccia’s defining factors. 
• The ease of stretching your dough will vary greatly depending on the climate, humidity, time of year, and type/brand of flour. Be patient and use the times as guidelines, not rules. 
• The proofing/rising time will also depend on these facts – be sure to proof properly and don’t rush it. When it’s cold, rising times will be much longer than in the summer!
• Use an oven thermometer to ensure your oven is at the correct temperature.

Authentic Ligurian Focaccia

Ingredients   .

• 1.5 cups + 2 Tbsp baking flour (200 g)
• 3.5 cups bread flour (300 g)
• 1 tsp active dry yeast
• 350 ml water
• 1 tsp salt
• 3 Tbsp olive oil + more for baking
• 2 tsp honey
• 3/4 tsp sea salt (for the brine)
• 1/3 cup lukewarm water (75 ml, for the brine)

Instructions  

• Transfer the dough to a large lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and for two hours until doubled in size, performing a series of four folds every 30 minutes by lifting up one corner of the dough with a wet hand, pulling it up and bringing it back down on top of the dough on the opposite side. Turn the bowl a quarter of a turn and repeat 3 more times until all the dough has been folded upon itself (2 hours total). Finish proofing at room temperature, anywhere from 1-4 hours more, depending on the weather, humidity, time of year, etc., or until doubled in size.
• Oil a pan well with 1 tablespoon olive oil and turn the dough out onto the oiled baking sheet.
• Using slightly wet or oiled hands, pull and stretch the dough out into an even rectangle (or whatever shape you can manage; it can be a little challenging to spread out), pulling from the underside of the dough outward, being sure it reaches to the edges of the pan. The dough will spring back, so repeat stretching once or twice over the next 30 minutes to ensure the dough remains stretched out fully to the edges.
• Brush with another 1-2 tablespoons of olive oil, cover with plastic wrap and let rise for about 1 hour while the oven is preheating to 475° F (245° C) until puffed.
• Dimple the ligurian focaccia. The trick is to keep your fingers moist. Dip your fingertips in water frequently. You also want to use the whole pads of your fingers to dimple the ligurian focaccia, not just the tips. If you just use your fingertips, you risk piercing the dough and creating smaller dimples. You ideally want to achieve large, wide dimples that will hold the brine well.
• Mix the brine and pour evening over the dough so it fills all the dimples.
• Sprinkle the ligurian focaccia lightly with flaky salt and bake on the lower rack of the oven for 13-18 minutes until golden and crisp.
• Remove and brush with another tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil. Let cool for 5 minutes in the pan and then transfer to a wire rack to finish cooling completely. You may need to use a knife to loosen it from the edges.
• Try and have the dough reach the edges of the pan to ensure the brine doesn’t end up under the focaccia. It should stay on top. 
• Don’t skimp on the olive oil because that is one of the authentic ligurian focaccia’s defining factors. 
• The ease of stretching your dough will vary greatly depending on the climate, humidity, time of year, and type/brand of flour. Be patient and use the times as guidelines, not rules. 

Authentic Ligurian Focaccia Recipe FAQ

You can store this Ligurian focaccia in an airtight container for one day, however, it’s really best the day it’s made. 

You can also freeze individual pieces by wrapping them well in plastic wrap and then in a zip lock bag. When freezing focaccia, it does loose any crispy bits on the surface. 

You can easily reheat focaccia by toasting it lightly in a toaster oven or putting it in a 300°F preheated oven until warmed through. You should never reheat bread or focaccia in the microwave. 

The brine creates a crunchy, golden exterior while keeping the inside moist and fluffy. 

About The Author

Related Posts

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Traditional Food of Liguria– Insider Tips on Foods You Must Try During Your Visit 

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Deliciously Easy Garlic Herb Focaccia

Make focaccia in an hour. Or a little longer if your bread machine doesn't have a pizza cycle. Also great as a pizza dough! I personally use 2 cups unbleached bread flour and 1 cup whole wheat flour. As with most recipes I have created — they are a base on which to build.

Ingredients

1 cup very warm water

3 tablespoons very warm water

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

3 cups bread flour

1 teaspoon white sugar

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons active dry yeast

6 cloves garlic, crushed, or more to taste

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup shredded Parmesan cheese

1 teaspoon dried parsley

½ teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon herbes de Provence, or more to taste

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place 1 cup plus 3 tablespoons water, 1 tablespoon olive oil, bread flour, white sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, and active dry yeast, respectively, in the pan of a bread machine. Select pizza cycle; press Start.

Combine crushed garlic and 1/3 cup olive oil in a small bowl. Set aside to let it steep, about 30 minutes.

Combine Parmesan cheese, parsley, onion powder, and herbes de Provence in another small bowl.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F (220 degrees C). Grease a large rimmed baking sheet with olive oil.

Deflate dough and turn out into the baking sheet. Stretch dough gently out to 1/2-inch thickness, using your fingers to make dimples that will hold the toppings.

Pour garlic and oil mixture onto dough and spread it evenly over the dough and edges with your hands. Sprinkle Parmesan cheese mixture evenly on top. Sprinkle dough with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Bake in the preheated oven until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and transfer from the baking sheet to a rack. Let cool, 5 minutes. Cut into squares with a pizza cutter.

Cook’s Note

Substitute Romano cheese for the Parmesan if desired.

Substitute an Italian herb blend for the herbes de Provence if preferred.

If your machine doesn't have a pizza cycle, select the dough cycle.

Nutrition Facts (per serving)

* Percent Daily Values are based on a 2,000 calorie diet. Your daily values may be higher or lower depending on your calorie needs.

** Nutrient information is not available for all ingredients. Amount is based on available nutrient data.

(-) Information is not currently available for this nutrient. If you are following a medically restrictive diet, please consult your doctor or registered dietitian before preparing this recipe for personal consumption.

Photos of Deliciously Easy Garlic Herb Focaccia

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• Pizzas and Focaccia

Focaccia col formaggio (Recco-style cheese focaccia)

• Difficulty: Difficult
• Prep time: 20 min
• Cook time: 15 min
• Serving: 8 persone
• Cost: Average
• Note + resting time for the dough

PRESENTATION

Focaccia is an institution of Ligurian cuisine. Focaccia with cheese from Recco , or focaccia col formaggio , is another typical delicacy. The history of focaccia with cheese begins at the time of the Third Crusade when farmers from Recco, forced to take refuge in the hinterland because of Arab invasions from the sea, only had water, flour, oil and cheese at their disposal, so they invented this type of focaccia, which has remained in the local gastronomic heritage. At the end of the 19th century, when the first taverns began to appear, focaccia with cheese was included in the menu but was served only during the period of the remembrance of the dead. At the beginning of the 1950s, with the development of tourism, focaccia with cheese became one of the most popular dishes sought by tourists and for this reason, innkeepers and bakers began to serve it not only around the period of the remembrance of the dead, but throughout the year.

INGREDIENTS

How to prepare focaccia col formaggio (recco-style cheese focaccia).

To prepare focaccia with cheese , start by pouring the flour 1 into a food processor fitted with a hook, then the water at room temperature  2 . Add the salt 3

and pour in the oil 4 . Work at low speed 5 , until a smooth and homogeneous dough is obtained 6 . If necessary, stop the machine and push the mixture down the sides with a rubber spatula. This will take about four or five minutes. Once the ingredients are blended, continue at a higher speed (but not very high) for another 4-5 minutes.

Then transfer the dough, which should be smooth and homogeneous, onto a work surface 7 . Lightly sprinkle the working surface and the dough with flour, then flatten it slightly and fold it, bringing the edges of dough inwards alternately. Wrap with plastic wrap 8 , or cover with a bowl or cloth. Let the dough rest at room temperature for 20 minutes. Divide the dough into 4 loaves: two slightly smaller 9 and two slightly larger. They will serve as a base and top for the 2 focacce.

Swirl the portions of dough on the worktop, giving them a spherical shape 10 and pinch the base with your fingers to seal the shape. Put them on a tray with the seal on the bottom, place them well spaced and cover them with plastic wrap 11 , before storing them in the fridge for about 1 hour. After this time, leave the dough at room temperature for 10 minutes to make the rolling out easier. Pick up one of the larger loaves, leaving the others covered. Dust the worktop with a little flour and push the dough down lightly with your hands, then take a rolling pin and start rolling it out 12 .

You will need to make a rectangular sheet 13 , larger than the 8x15-inch (20x40 cm) baking tray. The dough should be paper thin. You can raise the sheet and see where the dough is thicker and needs to be rolled out further. If the dough tends to shrink while you roll it out, wait a few minutes before continuing. In the meantime brush one of the two pans with 3/4 tablespoon (10 g) of extra virgin olive oil. Then lay the sheet of dough on the baking tray, letting the sides come over the edges of the tray 14 . Place about 1.5 cups (400 g) of crescenza cheese, in pieces, alternating one row with three pieces and one with two. Space pieces about one inch apart 15 . Brush with oil.

Roll out one of the two smaller balls of dough. You will always need to obtain a sheet of dough larger than the baking tray 16 . The thickness of the top piece should be even thinner than the base, as if it were a veil 17 . Pass your hands underneath the pulled dough, then lift with the back of your hands. Be careful not to tear the dough and lay it on top so that it sticks out over the pan’s edges 18 .

Seal well by applying light pressure on the edge 19 . Then, pinching with your fingers, make a few holes: 3 in a row will be fine, right over the cheese 20 . This way, the dough will bake evenly with no air bubbles 21 .

Now you have two alternatives: the first is to sprinkle a few drops of oil on the surface using a well soaked brush. The second consists in making a brine with a little water, a pinch of salt and a little oil 22 that you can brush on the surface. For a home oven we recommend this second technique (23-24) .

Pass the rolling pin over the edges 25 to remove the excess dough 26 . Always lightly press the edges to seal, bake in a static oven preheated to 480°F (250°C) for about 7-8 minutes. As oven temperatures vary slightly, adjust the baking time accordingly. In the meantime, prepare the second focaccia. Once ready, take out the first 27 , bake the second and serve it cut into squares.

Useful to know

Focaccia with cheese should be traditionally stuffed with Prescinseua , a typical fresh Genoese cheese made with ricotta and yogurt, which is not easy to find. This is why Crescenza cheese is used more frequently.

Salt, which is added to the dough of the cheese focaccia, has two important functions: it is a thickener and an antibacterial agent.

If the dough withdraws by rolling it out there can be two reasons: it did not rest long enough or the flour was too strong. The solution is to cover with a cloth and let it rest before rolling it out.

If the dough is torn by rolling it out then the flour used was too weak. In this case a stronger flour should be used and more water should be added to the dough. With experience you will find the right balance to ensure an excellent result!

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Overnight focaccia done four ways

This focaccia recipe’s long, cold fermentation builds a beautifully chewy texture and sour flavour that I love. And while the whole process does take up to a day, the actual ‘hands-on’ time is under an hour. Feel free to play around with different toppings, shapes and sizes. This dough is also great for pizzas, or you could make a bunch of mini focaccias for lunch boxes.

Ingredients

Start in the early evening. Combine the flour, yeast, 800ml room-temperature water and honey in a large bowl and, using your hands, work the mixture until you have a sticky, shaggy dough. Cover with a tea towel and leave for 30 minutes.

Half an hour later, add the salt and another 40ml water and mix with your hands again. Cover and leave for another 30 minutes.

Now we will do four ‘stretch and folds’ every half an hour for the next 2 hours. So, for the first one, start with damp hands and scoop about one-quarter of the dough up from one side, stretch it up and fold over the rest. Spin the bowl a quarter turn, scoop and stretch, and repeat until you’ve done four folds. Cover the bowl again and leave for another half an hour. Repeat this process three more times every half an hour.

Now we’re ready for the bulk fermentation stage, which means we will put the dough in the fridge overnight or for up to 24 hours to rise slowly.

Take the dough out of the fridge in the morning, turn it out onto a benchtop and divide it into two. Shape each piece into a flat disc, cover with a tea towel and leave at room temperature for another 30 minutes.

Drizzle a little olive oil into two roasting tins and, using your hands, rub it all over the base of the tins. Gently transfer a disc of dough into each tin and, even gentler still, begin pressing and pushing it to fit. It won’t give much straight away, but that’s why we’ll leave the dough now to relax for a while.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). It’s been 4 hours since we placed the dough into the tins, but you could halve this time if it’s hot where you are. It’s not an exact science at this stage! Now is the time to press in whatever toppings you’re going with (see opposite for some ideas). I read once that you might approach pressing into focaccia dough like you’re playing the piano softly – gentle pressing rather than prodding. And because the dough will rise as it bakes, as we want it to, you want to push your toppings quite deep into the dough, or they might pop up and burn as they cook. Drizzle with a little more olive oil and perhaps sprinkle with sea salt, depending on what you’ve added on top. Cook your focaccia for 30 minutes, or until puffed and deeply golden.

Yum! You’re done.

Four ways to customise your focaccia

Confit garlic and rosemary.

• Take 1 garlic head and carefully peel each clove. Pop in a small saucepan and cover with 1½ cups (375ml) olive oil.
• Place over the lowest heat possible and infuse for 30 minutes or so. You want the garlic cloves to have turned a light golden colour but not burned.
• Grab a jar and pop in a rosemary sprig , then pour in the garlic cloves and oil. Seal and store in the fridge.
• Follow the focaccia recipe, and right before you are ready to bake, dot the top of your lovely bubbly dough with about 10 confit garlic cloves and drizzle with some of the oil. Top with a few sprigs of rosemary and bake until golden.

Caramalised onion

• Heat 20g butter and 2 tablespoons olive oil in a deep-sided frying pan, then add 4 thinly sliced brown onions.
• Cook over low heat for about 30 minutes until deeply caramelised and soft.
• Leave to cool, then spread across your focaccia. Press in and drizzle with extra olive oil and sea salt right before baking.

Apple, cheddar and thyme

• Place 3 thinly sliced red apples in a large bowl and add 1½ cups (150g) grated cheddar and 3 tablespoons thyme leaves .
• Drizzle in about 3 tablespoons olive oil and 1 teaspoon sea salt and gently toss to combine.
• Press this mixture into the top of your focaccia before it goes into the oven.

Fig and hazelnut

• When your focaccia is ready to go in the oven, gently press in 8 quartered figs and 1 cup (120g) roughly chopped roasted hazelnuts .
• Drizzle with a little extra olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt, then bake.

Once baked and cooled, these focaccias travel well in an airtight container. They can be warmed in the oven or sliced and toasted when you arrive. NOTE

This is an edited extract from What Can I Bring? by Sophie Hansen. You can buy it here.

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Focaccia col formaggio

Ingredients

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