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Rick Steves Didn't Always Like This Less-Touristy European City (And Why He Changed His Mind)
"I admit that Bratislava used to leave me cold," travel expert Rick Steves declared, saying that the city's old town was a "dangerous ghost town" as recently as the 1990s, when communist rule fell and Slovakia had its "Velvet Divorce" from the Czech nation.
By 2010, however, Steves had a change of heart. "Changes in recent decades have transformed it into a delightful destination," the writer enthused, adding that "Bratislava's energy is inspiring." Since then, the area has continued its ascent following its freedom from communist oppression. Steves said the city had developed a youthful spirit, with thousands of university students filling the Old Town, which is a de facto campus at night with many restaurants, bars, and clubs.
Bratislava still lacks what Rick Steves calls "blockbuster sights," but that's not the point of this typically underrated European city . It's an intimate place, more suitable for easy living than sightseeing and itinerary-chasing. For that, you're better off heading over the Danube to Vienna, which sports its bustling streets, towering architecture, and unforgettable wine culture .
One of Europe's great urban success stories
Rick Steves considers Bratislava to be one of "Europe's great urban success stories." Color and increased economic activity washed over the whole city following Slovakia's newfound freedom in the '90s, leading to major improvements in the Old Town, industrial quarter, and once-gloomy suburb of Petržalka. Leading tour guide Martin Sloboda impressed Steves with Bratislava's powers of not only forward-thinking ambition but also respect for history, which the communists often lacked after the Second World War.
Sloboda took Steves to Café Kormúth, an inviting, old-fashioned cafe decorated with extensive wood carvings and dazzling ceiling artwork reflecting Slovakian history, including the full coat of arms of the Austo-Hungarian empire. Steves had no problem paying €10 ($11) to "luxuriate in the 17th century," enjoying the eatery's free-range produce dishes and delectable cakes served on rare, historic porcelain.
For a post-communist icon of Bratislava, visit the SNP bridge observation deck. Reviled by some as a tyrannical throwback, the city's businesspeople and restaurateurs turned the space-age structure into an upscale restaurant named UFO, where one can expect elegant gastronomy and sweeping city views.
A young, fun old town
If Krakow is the Boston of Poland , then Bratislava could be the Portland of Slovakia. Like the Oregon city, Bratislava is a small place with a young crowd interested in cafe culture, creativity, and community — all of which are best represented in the city's Old Town.
Michalská Street is a busy thoroughfare that impressed Steves with its thriving cafés and boutiques. "[It is a] symbol of how far the city has come," Steves wrote, describing the area as "delightful." Nearby Laurinská Street had its charms, too, with characterful boutiques and several of the Old Town's playful statues, such as a Čumil, a bronze sculpture of a smiling man resting at the top of a manhole.
In Bratislava, drinks are cheap and bars are numerous. After sampling the pork, dumplings, and other traditional central European fare at Koliba Kamzik Zelena, check out Manifest, a colorful cocktail bar with neon lighting and graffiti motifs; KGB, a cellar pub with Soviet iconography; and the Antique American Bar, which has a vibe somewhere between prohibition and "Mad Men." All of these — and more — contribute to the city's vibe and energy, which, as Steves said, "is inspiring."
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Bayonne to Bilbao. This is a moderately active tour! Most days are moderately paced with 2-8 miles of walking, including some hills, gravel trails, and stairs. Travel to Spain and France for vacation on a Rick Steves Basque Country tour! You'll experience Pamplona, San Sebastian, Bilbao and its Guggenheim, Guernica, and Bayonne on this 9-day ...
Spanish Basque Country. Straddling two nations on the Atlantic Coast — stretching about 100 miles from Bilbao, Spain, north to Bayonne, France — lies the ancient, free-spirited land of the Basques. The Basque Country is famous for its beaches and scintillating modern architecture…and for its feisty, industrious natives.
It was starting to rain when the private transfer service picked us up at noon in Saint-Jean-de-Luz to take us to starting point of the RS Best of Basque Country tour: the Mercure Bayonne Centre Le Grand Hotel 21, Rue Thiers, Bayonne. The Rick Steves' tour hotels are usually in great locations in the city center and this was no exception.
Rick Steves Basque Country of Spain & France in 9 Days Tour, Day by Day. Straddling the modern-day borders of Spain and France is one of Europe's most ancient, independent-thinking regions. Starting in Bayonne and ending in Bilbao, Rick Steves' Basque Country tour happily immerses you in the rich art, history, and culture of the Basque region ...
Tour Report: Basque Country of Spain and France, September 22 - 30, 2023. Jump to bottom. Posted by Jane (Sapulpa, OK, USA) on 11/21/23 06:29 PM. I'll follow my usual pattern for tour reports, giving a general overview first, then going day by day. If you've read my reports before, you know I can get bogged down in detail, but some of you ...
4.2/5 Great. 23 reviews. 78%. Download brochure. By Rick Steves. preferred. Small Group Tour. Straddling the modern-day borders of Spain and France is one of Europe's most ancient, independent-thinking regions: the Basque Country. Starting in Bayonne and ending in Bilbao, this tour happily immerses you in the rich art, history, and culture of ...
Basque Country, Spain. The Basques, united by language, cuisine, sports, and culture, share a coastal region that overlaps with southwest France and northern Spain. We visit resorty San Sebastián, the bombed-but-restored town of Guernica, and in France, endearing St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, and urban Bayonne. keywords. Culture Contemporary Spain.
The ancient, free-spirited land of the Basques straddles France and Spain. These proud, industrious and independent people occupy a small yet diverse region...
More info about travel to Spanish Basque Country:https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/spain/basque-country Elegant and prosperous San Sebastián — or Donostia, a...
More info about travel to French Basque Country: https://www.ricksteves.com/europe/france/basque-country French Basque Country is dotted with unique small t...
Explore the French Basque Country! Get inspired with Rick Steves' recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on the French Basque Country. ... Latest French Basque Country Travel Forum Posts. Tour de France 2024 part 2 (Travel related) Travel from Paris to French Basque for 3-4 days in August ;
City bus from the Biarritz airport to Bayonne. It's not glamorous, but it's easy, inexpensive and fast. Buy your tickets from the machine at the bus shelter. I think it's the #4 bus. The bus depot in Bayonne is only two blocks from the Mercure hotel. (We did the RS Basque tour in May. Our favorite of four RS tours).
More info about travel to Spanish Basque Country: http://www.ricksteves.com/europe/spain/basque-country Bilbao has recently been transformed from a gritty st...
Basque Country. The homeland of the proud and resilient Basque people is split between France and Spain. From our San Sebastián home base, we tour the ancient Basque capital of Guernica, the dazzling Guggenheim Bilbao, and then cross into France for more Basque Country charms. From yummy tapa bars to lightning-fast jai alai games, we'll ...
5 posts. San Sebastián: This coastal city is known for its beautiful beaches, delicious Basque cuisine, and vibrant nightlife. Don't miss the opportunity to try some pintxos, small Basque tapas, at one of the many bars in the old town. The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao: This modern art museum is a must-see for art lovers.
Snapshot: Basque Country: Spain and France. Share. $9.99. Just what you need for the best of the Basque Country. Rick's picks for eating and sleeping. Great self-guided walks and tours. Tips for connecting each stop by train, bus, or car. Easy-to-read maps. Shipping & Returns.
The Best of the Basque Country. By Rick Steves. Guggenheim Bilbao in northern Spain is a glimmering, shimmering modern art museum. (photo: Cameron Hewitt) With a lovely beach and tempting pastries, St-Jean-de-Luz offers an enjoyable mix of French and Basque cultures. (photo: Rick Steves) As Europe unites, ethnic regions — suddenly seen by ...
We want to include the Basque region and a touch of the Pyrenees. We will skip Barcelona as we toured that city last year via a cruise. We were planning to fly in and out of Madrid but have no reservations yet. Tentative itinerary: Madrid - 4 nights. Pamplona - 3 nights. Bilbao - 2 nights. Granada - 3 nights.
Rick Steves considers Bratislava to be one of "Europe's great urban success stories." Color and increased economic activity washed over the whole city following Slovakia's newfound freedom in the '90s, leading to major improvements in the Old Town, industrial quarter, and once-gloomy suburb of Petržalka.
The Basque Country: Europe's Premium Blend. By Rick Steves. The striking architecture of the Guggenheim Bilbao art museum has put the Basque city of Bilbao on the map. (photo: Cameron Hewitt) San Sebastián's Old Town provides the ideal backdrop for tapas-hopping; just wander the streets and sidle up to a bar piled with tiny snacks. (photo ...
Monroeville, PA, USA. 12/22/18 09:30 PM. 15 posts. We took the Basque tour this past mid-September which was great. The weather was fine but it actually was hot by the time we got to Bilbao. You could enjoy the beaches at St Jean de Luz or San Sebastian during either June or July. I would not bother making it for the running of the bulls unless ...
Rick Steves Basque Tour. My husband and I are interested in the Rick Steves' Northern Spain/Basque tour. We are in our 70s, but quite active. That said, we would have a difficult time carrying luggage up several flights of stairs. I know the logical response is "pack light," but we are long-time travelers, and have never been successful in ...